And in case you were already wondering what this thing is…

It‘s a small, cordless screwdriver by Bosch, titled IXO VI.

Accepts standard 6.35mm (¼ inch) hex bits. Variable speed depending on how deep you pull the trigger.
Banana for scale.

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I‘ve also ordered the optional charging cradle so you can just lay it down to recharge when the battery is exhausted.

The Micro-USB-B plug has a satisfying deep sounding click to it and firmly keeps the charging lead attached.

The battery indicator shows you how much battery is left for action. The LEDs are visible quite well without being blindingly bright in a softer lit room.

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Ever wondered what the difference between cat.6 and cat.6a gear like a wall jack or patchpanel *actually* is?

Surprisingly little, but essential. Cat.6 networks with the common RJ45 ethernet plugs are specified for up to 1Gbit/s.
Whereas cat.6a goes up to 10 Gbit/s.

Here‘s a simple double patch box for each of the specs. They look almost identical at first glance.

The cat.6 model is in the left in all pictures and the cat.6a model on the right hand side.

I recently got a whiteboard at my home office. Therefor I needed a thing to hold the markers. I couldn‘t find anything online that would be exactly what I had in mind.

- Tip down placement of pens
- held on by a magnet
- uses the strong magnets from defunct 3.5" harddrives, because I have plenty of those

So I “designed”* my own. It‘s not perfect, but it works.

*) Terribly mashed together in OpenSCAD

Very grateful that @ripper did drill a hole for a cable duct in my flat so I can improve my network topology.
As it is common in old buildings the walls are pretty unpredictable when drilling.
In the end we were successful.

Banana for scale.

Für die einen ist es Bewegungsfreiheit. Für die anderen der kleinste VESA-Mount der Welt!

Serious table mounting clamp is serious.

Smartphone for scale due to lack of .

Der @ripper und ich haben gestern im ein wenig tragendes Gaffa Tape verbaut. Für mehr mehrstöckige Kabeltrassenverlegung, bis direkt überm Rack.

Only a few parts and screws left over. Replacement body pins are always handy to have. You‘ll lose some for sure.

The finished vehicle, pretty much ready to be taken for a test run. Program the speed controller, trim the steering servo so the vehicle can go straight. Though it rarely will given that it‘s made to wheelie.

The whole build can be done in a day including a box art paint job. The chassis is easily done in just a few hours and is a beginner friendly kit.

I‘m off charging batteries…

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With all the masking tape removed the body can sit for a day or two to let the layers settle. This special paint will stay somewhat flexible and not become brittle. So in case if impact the paint won‘t pop off and stay nice‘n shiny.

At the rear we can now mount the wing to have an almost completed body. In most cases you‘ll now have to apply a good amount if stickers and detailing.
Since I didn‘t go with box art, I‘ll most likely skip that.

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Sometimes paint gets sucked under a piece of mask since that works similarly to a capillary. Din‘t fret, there are small bottles of helpful chemistry which allow you to carefully correct such mishaps.
Apply with a q-tip and counter-mask the area where paint should stay. Triple check before applying paint remover and immediately tap dry so your paint job doesn‘t get damaged.

Rinse repeat and remask for the final paint colour. Pure black.

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First colour to apply is a few coats of strange orange. The wet paint under cold LED light on that green working mat is totally colour-calibrated and representative if the actual result.*

Second colour is backing the orange parts with silver to make them pop! Since there‘s also parts that actually shall become silver, like the roll cage rods, i had to change the masking in between.

If you apply paint too thick you get rough patches. This takes time, patience is a virtue.

*) Absolutely *not*!

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