Rant, Raspberry Pi OS, IPv6
Turns out, it wasn‘t the Raspberry Pi‘s fault, nor the VLAN or Firewall‘s. It was the switch.
Nope, not the trivial things you instantly double- and triple check, like PVID (aka “native VLAN”) on the access port, or tagged/untagged access, etc.
The switch itself was handing out empty RAs and NDs and swallowing DHCPv6. Because I hadn‘t ticked this box in a level 4.
A comparison between the old battery pack and the new one. The old one is still wet and glibbery from the solvent and glue. The bulging is even more obvious now that the pack isn't squeezed in into the chassis anymore.
All that's left now is to remove the film from the new glue pads, neatly put in the battery pack, remove the top film. Then reconnect the battery to the motherboard, test everything, close it all up and recalibrate.
That's a battery swap on a 15" MacBook Pro.
Since this model doesn't have the super large glue pads, but only slim black strips these released reasonably easy. Put the flimsy 6-pack of lithium polymer balloons to the side and clean up the mess.
First get out the large strip pieces with a plastic spatula. Soak up the remaining solvent and glue goo with a paper kitchen towel. Then get out the isopropyl alcohol to clean it all up. Lot's of scrubbing action and a few kitchen towels later it's all clean and shiny inside again.
With the wide (and blunt) edge of a nylon tool we can get in between the cells an carefully wedge the casing to the side. That way I can get in with the cannula to administer the solvent. You do NOT want to poke the cells. So this needs good lighting and a steady hand. (Or three.)
Once the solvent has gotten under the cells and reached the glue, we can start prying the cells out of the case. The solvent takes about 10-15 minutes to make the glue strips soft enough.
To remove the battery we need to dissolve the glue strips. That's what the Toluene is for. Before we can crack the seal, let's put on personal protection gear. Simple working glasses and nitrile gloves. (I like the purple colour, though it's not relevant for this kind of work.)
Usually there's a nice gap of about 1.5mm between the cells where you can easily get in between with the syringe to apply the solvent. These cells are so puffy, the gas sack is like a balloon.
The laptop was already quite wobbly on the desk, so not sitting flat anymore. The bottom case clearly bulging under the pressure of the puffing battery. (95Wh) Upon unscrewing the bottom case it popped up as expected. So first, let's inspect the battery for any obvious signs of damage as they might cause a fire hazard.
No damage visible, that's a good thing. So let's disconnect the battery pack and remove the two screws that hold the battery interconnect board in place.
Some time ago I did a thread about swapping a glued-in battery in an Apple MacBook Pro 15". https://chaos.social/@MacLemon/105640795060530037
I'll just add a few things and what's different about this retina MacBook Pro (Mid 2014).
Just two screwdrivers needed. A Pentalobe5 1.2mm for the bottom case and a Torx 5, so nothing unexpected for an Apple device repair. Also, a syringe and industrial solvent. (Tuluene, C₇H₈)
So many people, especially office workers, are not aware that spring onions are a natural source of rubber bands.
Not only do they make your breakfast snacks tastier, they also deliver office supplies at the same time.
Laut ihrer Pressemitteilung fährt die #ÖBB nun täglich über die neue Seidenstraße, die Europa und China per Bahn verbindet um Güter zu transportieren.
Ich habe da mal eine Vorschlag wie wir diese Züge nennen könnten:
What are you doing #Mastonaut? Why is that not possible and why does my client application not tell me this before actually trying to post the toot?
Also, why is this hanging then with no other option than to discard the message and start over?
It's a terrible user experience, because if you don't save your carefully crafted image descriptions, they're lost.
More progress on the Manta Ray restoration. I‘ve completely dismantled the front and cleaned all the parts. Gears looked fine but were regreased anyway. Again, replaced all the plastic and brass bushings with proper ball bearings.
I was able to work around the broken chassis standoffs with longer screws and ca-glue. Perfectly fine again. Drive train has a new propeller shaft since the old one was bent from the crash.
Everything went back together flawlessly.
Working on the restoration of a #Tamiya [Manta Ray (1990)] that I got from dear friends.
At first glance it seemed to be in good shape with only the rear diff almost blocking. Upon taking it apart it became obvious that this vehicle hasn‘t been driven a lot. A few battery packs at most I‘d guess. I guess it got stashed away after a rather high jump and a hard crash which resulted in a partly broken chassis.
Yes, I can repair it.
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