I recently got a whiteboard at my home office. Therefor I needed a thing to hold the markers. I couldn‘t find anything online that would be exactly what I had in mind.

- Tip down placement of pens
- held on by a magnet
- uses the strong magnets from defunct 3.5" harddrives, because I have plenty of those

So I “designed”* my own. It‘s not perfect, but it works.

*) Terribly mashed together in OpenSCAD

Working on a prototype for a stand for a TXT-2 Agrios, one of my .
The intention is to place it beneath the axles to the tires float in the air to prevent flats while the vehicle is in storage.

I'm a test object now to see if all my calculations and tolerances are correct.

Simple tuning for my '87 Tamiya LunchBox. I can highly recommend adding a front chassis-brace.
This is the implementation using a 3mm threaded rod and balljoints. You need to upgrade the front suspension to oil dampers opposed to the stock bouncies. It stiffens up the front, prevents overflexing on landing odd jumps and saves the tub from breaking.
This mod improves steering but keeps driving characteristics bunny enough to keep the fun.
You can do similarly by a brace.

A few hours later…
You're allowed to laugh at the time it took me to create such a simple looking box prototype 1.0. The time includes taking measurements of items.
This thing is currently and I'll see if it fits then.

For a stupid ide^W^Wan art project, @ripper constructed a functional piece.

took 14h 19‘ in generic black PET-G at 0.15mm layer hight. It came out pretty much perfectly. I only had to remove minimal stringing, which is similarly complex as getting rid of a few strings of a spider web.

The resulting piece has only 181g and is 270 x 170 x 55mm, each dimension measured at the longest edge.

No spiders were harmed in the making of this print.

After a few initial annoyances I've come to like some functionality OctoPrint provides for .

Installing the OctoPi distro on a Raspberry Pi 3B+ was easy and worked for a few weeks.

But by now it has killed multiple prints in progress and that's enough reason to ditch it. It's just not worth killing multi-day prints for a little convenience.

I'll try switching the RasPi based setup to a VM on proper hardware. Raspis, while fun for tinkering, are way too unreliable for deployments

To advance technology in , you sometimes have to cross a line.
In this case the line where your build volume ends.

Cue in Aerosmith voice: I‘m printing on the edge!

I‘d like to share one of my semi because sometimes is off just a wee little bit.

It‘s a small shelf piece that goes on an IKEA Skådis peg board. It *should* have a flat and *horizontal* floor.
This one is tilted just a fraction of a degree with reference to the build plate and therefore jagged.

I messed up by not snapping to exact 90° while rotating in the slicer.

It‘s a usable piece but the tilt added quite some printing time and reduced surface finish.

If you want to see which parts can bring to your Skådis peg board, have a look at Thingiverse thingiverse.com/search?q=ikea+ or one of the many other model databases on the internet. You can search many of them with yeggi, a search engine specialised in 3d models for printing, laser cutting, and even modelling and animation.

Here's a meta-search link for Skådis on yeggi.

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Some slight stringing observed while a set of tiny bottles. Easily cleaned up and they fit into the tiny crate just fine.
Detailing is work in progress.

Another convenient piece is this mount for AA (Mignon) size rechargable batteries. is done in two pieces fir the left and right half which slot onto the board separately.
You insert freshly charged batteries at the top right hand side which has a hole for that. You grab one from the bottom when required.
I put depleted batteries from my devices directly into the charger and into the mount once they‘re recharged.
Simple cycle, and you always know how many fresh ones you got in stock.

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@MacLemon Like this specialized mount for calipers. Can‘t buy these but you can create them by .
The moiré pattern is a result of the LED light PWM frequency and the shutter of the camera. It‘s not visible on the actual print.

Printed in generic black ABS. Slots into the board just fine and keeps my calipers off the table so I can easily find them.

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allows me to augment my IKEA Skådis board without having to buy expensive pegs and also get specialized mounts unavailable otherwise. (It‘s basically IKEA‘s rendition of a peg board.)

This is a simple hook for mounting tape rolls up to 50mm in width.

I’m really happy how this part turned out.
It‘s a hook that mounts to the upright rod on the Xiaomi Mijia M365/Pro where you can hang a small bag while riding.
Opposed to slinging it over the grip ends or your wrist this doesn’t affect steering thus improving ride safety.
The top hook prevents your load from slipping when hitting bumps.

Printed in generic, black ABS, 5 walls, 0.15mm layer height, 30% honeycomb infill for mechanical strength. No supports needed for the screw holes.

When sometimes a print doesn‘t work out as intended or isn‘t the quality you hoped for. All kinds if failures happen.

I like to share as well, so everyone can learn and people don‘t believe they‘re the only ones who have prints failing.

Here‘s an stand printed in generic cheap white PLA which warped.

I would have needed to raise the nozzle and bed temp by 5-10°C for a large object like this at the way too high speed I printed.

Not pretty, but still works OK.

I recently printed a stabilizing bracket for the Xiaomi Mijia M365 mud guard. To mount it you remove the side panels that protect the axle mounting screws and mount the bracket instead. The tail end screws in with the backside of the taillight LED. I needed to replace the LED screws with longer ones.

The bracket also protects the wire to the taillight so it won't be shredded between mudguard and tire.

Object by AntoDelG: thingiverse.com/thing:2875361

Found the bug in my code and the model was successfully printed and it actually works sufficiently well that I mounted it to do a field test outside tomorrow.
The other mounting bracket is mostly looking convincing on screen as well. Not sure about the small screw holes yet, but there's almost no space where this is going. I'll see if that works.
of that part is currently in progress.

Current status: Debugging code for , because basic math is hard and correctly compensating for minkowski() in two dimensions is annoying.

@MacLemon went well. Old hotness on the right, new coolness on the left hand side.

Printed in cheap black ABS at 0.2mm layer height.

Waiting for a complete cooldown before fiddling around the nozzle to mount the new shroud.

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a replacement part for the printer with that printer us kinda Münchhausen but sometimes that actually works.

New cooling fan shroud in the making.

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