@Wifi_cable I‘d expect the UNO to be around 200-500mA and the Pi at 3A max. During boot it doesn‘t use the GPU, so that is expected. If you also do CV that may rise significantly from the 1A at boot.

Still doesn‘t easily estimate to a constant draw way over 3A. :-/ Also doesn‘t suggest peaks over 5A.

Hobbywing usually are quality products, so I‘d expect them to be on spec.

RX and servo are powered via the ESC integrated BEC I assume.

@Wifi_cable No idea what you need that UNO for, I don‘t see anything connected to it. Powering it through the Raspi is very inefficient though.
You could get the same 328p or 32U4 in a Pro Micro, Pro mini or Nano. Some can directly use up to 10V IIRC.
If you need a serial connection between them use the IO pins instead of USB serial.
This could already save up to a few hundred mA in total.

@Wifi_cable Oh, the other way round they die. I see. Powering a Raspi 3/4, an Arduino and a few sensors will likely go over 3A at 5V.

The Raspi alone can use that much power depending on how much it has to do. They rise pretty high once the GPU is involved.

My best guess is that you‘re drawing more than 3A over a too long period from that BEC. Time to get out that multimeter or put a resettable fuse in there.

The 5A peak rate are for a few seconds only.

The funny looking dual antennae are a little fiddly to mount. Turning the vehicle on the side makes matters easier.

The manual also wants us to mount the speed controller and receiver to the top of the chassis using double sided tape.

I‘m using the kit stock ESC because it‘s a versatile piece of electronics and it‘s included. My receiver is quite different in shape and size than the one depicted in the manual though. So I‘ll happily divert from the guide and decide how to affix them later.

Show thread

Step 19 is where the side nerv guards are attached and the power switch. This step uses five (5) different types of screws and four of them are black and only distinguishable by length.
Getting the necessary screws sorted before starting this step and maybe mark them with a quick sticky note will make it easier.

If you accidentally mix up the left and right side, don‘t worry. You can take it apart again and flip a piece around. Just happened to me despite being in the hobby for decades.

Show thread

Front body post are mounted adjacent to the steering servo. The rear posts sit over the shocks with the taillights on either side.
Suddenly the hornet starts looking like a hedgehog. And it glows furiously red.

Show thread

In build group D, we‘re finishing the chassis.

There‘s a good amount of slightly different screws, screwpins, washers and other parts involved in these steps. Nothing that could scare you though. I like sorting the different bits‘n‘pieces on my parts trays to get a better overview and so I can more easily find what I need.

We‘ll unify the front and rear and mount body posts and even some LEDs.

Show thread

Only a few things left to do for build group C. Putting the spring preloading clips onto the shock cylinders, add the coiled springs and snap them into the bottom caps.

You may now clip the shocks onto the balljoints reserved at the front and rear axles. Should almost just snap in place by hand but feel free to use pliers.
Take care to put the ones with the travel limiting spacer on the rear axle and the remaining ones at the front.

You‘re left with O-rings and some sprues. This concludes C.

Show thread

@falk @rixx CC‘s Things is likely even topping the extremely powerful Omni products in terms of UI/UX and especially in the highly acclaimed it-gets-out-of-my-way category.
It‘s a more modern workflow opposed to the very strict GTD model followed by OmniFocus. Though the recent OF3 has easened up somewhat.

As soon as all the bubbles have left the cylinders we can progress with closing them up with the seals and the top cap.
The process is put the green sealing caps on from the side so excess oil can spill over. You just wipe it off carefully with a paper towel.

Screw on the top cap, rinse and repeat four times.

Show thread

@ddipaola I buy bearings from a third party as well. A lot cheaper and they even make kit specific sets for almost any kit and vendor on the market.
If they don‘t have a set yet, just ask them and they‘ll put one together.

Small austrian shop.
modellbau-werkstatt.at/shop/th

We‘re building two pairs of shocks, one each for the front and the rear suspension. They‘re *almost* identical. The rear ones sport an additional spacer that limits their travel. Don‘t forget to put that on the piston rod before screwing on the end ball cup.

The ball cups come pre-threaded and go on easily and alined. Make sure the piston is screwed in all the way. The last part needs more force and you must hold on to the piston rod with protective cloth and pliers.
Then slowly fill with oil.

Show thread

Build group C, steps 12 through 15, may come as a shock to you because that what it‘s all about.
Building for shock absorbers.

The V- and W- trees made from Nylon will compose the inner shock bodies that hold the damper oil.

To keep this entry friendly kit easy to build, the damping rate of these is not adjustable. That also means, you can’t go wrong and mess up your suspension. :-)

Expect this to be partially messy, so have a few kitchen paper towels ready and a pair of pliers.

Show thread

The front suspension fully mounted and the tie-rods are connected to the steering servo already. Wishbones are moving freely up and down and drop through gravity alone when lifted up. That‘s how an unloaded suspension should behave.

This part of the assembly is mostly done now.

Concluding group B leaves us with the screws we didn‘t need for our particular servo we used, so that‘s perfectly fine. The remaining screw pins, ball joint and screw are spares.

The 2 bearings are for the rear axle.

Show thread

Getting out the M-tree now with front and rear bumper parts made of black, flexible Nylon. Also the front double wishbones, knuckles and C-hubs. A few bearings, screws, ball joints, screw pins, and even body clips.

It all goes onto the front of the main chassis.

Show thread

Getting out the D-tree now, which is made from ABS. A common choice for chassis frames, like this one. The connections between part and tree are somewhat larger and rounded this time, so make sure to remove any burrs.

Mounting the servo takes just two screws and don‘t overlook the washer, like I just did. The rest is just screwing together the chassis sandwich and the receptacle for the front bumper.

Show thread

@Cheatha Puh, die Dose ist aber nicht flush mit der Tischoberfläche dann. Sprich Du kannst quasi alle Steckernetzteile da *nicht* reinstecken. (zB das fürs MacBook Pro)

Gibt auch andere Modelle die nach oben rausklappen, wo das dann geht, oder welche die als Türmchen aus dem Tisch rausfahren. Kommt auf den Tisch an ob das gut montierbar ist.

Die meisten sind leider eher teuer. Dann solls wenigstens gscheit funktionieren. :-)

MacLemon boosted

> suche WG in Wien, am besten < 400€
> ideal ab 1.10. , unmöbliert
> Bett, Tisch und Regale hab ich
> LGBTQ freundlich

Hi Leute, ich bin der Lukas, 24, Studi aus der Schweiz, der auf der Suche nach ner coolen WG ist. Ich bin ein total offener Typ, reise gerne, mach Musik, bastel Dinge mit Elektronik und so, bin kreativ und leicht zu begeistern.Ich freu mich super wenn man ab und zu n Bierchen zusammen trinken oder was kochen kann...

> (Tel. / TG) +43 677 620 401 64
> email: wg.lukas@hannen.at

To connect the tie-rods to the servo we need a few parts. One piece that directly goes on the servo axle matching the correct number of splines. The C-shaped servo-saver clamp, and the servo horn that connects to the tie-rods via ball joints and cups.

The correct length of the tie rods is stated in the manual and also how exactly it is measured. It helps having calipers available, but if you don‘t you can just align your piece with the 1:1 print in the manual. This applies to screws as well.

Show thread

@vollkorn Wann gibts eigentlich Dein Vollkornkochbuch?
Deine Fotos machen immer Gusto!

Show more