A new side quest appears:
* satisfy_dependencies_for: Cannot satisfy the following dependencies for shairport-sync-mbedtls:
* kernel (= 4.14.180-1-d92769dc5268e102503ae83fe968a56c)
* opkg_install_cmd: Cannot install package
pretalx now has a Funding page that explains how you can support the project financially, if you want to, and it's linked whereever the documentation refers to missing features. https://docs.pretalx.org/funding.html
A thread about concrete casting with a 3D printed mould:
About a year ago, @MacLemon and I had an idea for a project which required a heavy object in a custom shape. We thought a lot about it and settled for casting it with concrete. I modelled the mould in CAD and MacLemon printed all the parts in PET-G over a few days on his Prusa MK3.
Now lets go over our mould design first:
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It brings improvements to your CryptDrive, Kanban, 日本語 Fonts, and an automatic Table of Contents for rich-text (blue) pads as well as a few bug fixes.
Check the release notes for detailed information about this update.
Only a few parts and screws left over. Replacement body pins are always handy to have. You‘ll lose some for sure.
The finished vehicle, pretty much ready to be taken for a test run. Program the speed controller, trim the steering servo so the vehicle can go straight. Though it rarely will given that it‘s made to wheelie.
The whole build can be done in a day including a box art paint job. The chassis is easily done in just a few hours and is a beginner friendly kit.
I‘m off charging batteries…
With all the masking tape removed the body can sit for a day or two to let the layers settle. This special paint will stay somewhat flexible and not become brittle. So in case if impact the paint won‘t pop off and stay nice‘n shiny.
At the rear we can now mount the wing to have an almost completed body. In most cases you‘ll now have to apply a good amount if stickers and detailing.
Since I didn‘t go with box art, I‘ll most likely skip that.
Sometimes paint gets sucked under a piece of mask since that works similarly to a capillary. Din‘t fret, there are small bottles of helpful chemistry which allow you to carefully correct such mishaps.
Apply with a q-tip and counter-mask the area where paint should stay. Triple check before applying paint remover and immediately tap dry so your paint job doesn‘t get damaged.
Rinse repeat and remask for the final paint colour. Pure black.
First colour to apply is a few coats of strange orange. The wet paint under cold LED light on that green working mat is totally colour-calibrated and representative if the actual result.*
Second colour is backing the orange parts with silver to make them pop! Since there‘s also parts that actually shall become silver, like the roll cage rods, i had to change the masking in between.
If you apply paint too thick you get rough patches. This takes time, patience is a virtue.
*) Absolutely *not*!
Before we can start painting we need to thoroughly clean all the body parts to remove any grease or oil which will prevent the paint from sticking.
There‘s window masks included but you still need to cut them to shape yourselves. Why #Tamiya still doesn‘t precut those is beyond me. It would make model citizens‘ lifes a lot easier.
Always cover any holes so the paint doesn‘t drip through.
Then attach the windows masks as instructed. Since I‘m not doing simple box art I have more masking to do.
After a bunch of iterations I‘m happy with the cut and how the body will sit in the chassis.
It‘s time to take a picture of the transparent body on a neutral white background to develop the paint scheme that I want to create.
On a small left-over piece I can do a paint test to check how the colors will look like when layered upon each other.
Since polycarbonate bodies are painted from the *inside* it‘s very important to get the layer order correct. You cannot easily make corrections.
The body needs some cutting and trimming as well. First separate the main body and rear wing parts, the trim along the lines with Lexan scissors or a sharp hobby knife.
I‘m intentionally leaving more material around the body to get the skirt a little lower than box art suggests.
Building the light buckets is more complex than expected. The body itself is just twi rounded pieces screwed together but it also includes a front “glass”. This is made from impact resistant polycarbonate and has to be cut out from the larger polycarbonate piece which forms the main body, headlight glasses and rear wing.
It‘s well marked and the size of a fingertip. Peel off the protective film and assemble both with a simple, white 5mm LED.
With the front bumper in place we get to the last small chassis parts. The exaggerated faux exhaust pipes not only add to the ridiculous looks, they also double as the battery compartment door. This one only takes the traditional rounded racing-pack sized batteries, so no rectangular LiPos. But there are rounded LiPos as well and they work fine. Just keep in mind that the kit included TBLE-02-S speedo does not have a low-voltage cut-off suitable for LiPos. Use a separate buzzer!
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